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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.